Morning walk!

Hot hot day and the sun bouncing off the stone walls and shiny cobbled paths - ready for my bottle of water - the dive is way too high from here!

Lovrnac Castle from City walls

Sitting on the rock of a bay? This bay was sheer blue water and crystal clear. Kayakers paddled off in groups in the calm waters as yachts motored by, people swam and I walked the walls.

Terracotta!

Looking toward Lokum Island N.W. of city above a sea of red roof tiles!

Dubrovnik Harbour from City walls

Hello Dubrovnik!

Arrived here at 5pm on Tuesday 18/9 after 3 planes from Vancouver and a bus to the Old City, wonderful vistas along the coast road but many steps inside the Pile Gate and along the Stradun to the apartment thru the main market square and up by e Spanish steps. Enjoyed a classical concert by the Dubrovnik Symphony Orchestra in Rektor's Palace with its open roof to the skies above - amazing!
This morning hit the trail around the city walls - above a sea of terracotta roof tiles and church spires with the dazzling Adriatic beyond. Vibrant street life below and the aroma of cooking fish in the hazy summer air. Plenty of tourists abound, Brits and Germans mostly. Cares and boutiques and flocks of pigeons overhead. Kayakers out on the calm waters, happy faces and a sense of well-being in such an historical place whose recent history was so appalling but seems to be thankfully fading with time.

Sailing Itinerary

Our 2012 planned itinerary combines a bit of everything - a great sailing destination, quiet anchorages and Croatian villages.

Our base Marina Mandalina is located just south of the city of Sibenik. Mandalina is a perfect starting point for sailing Croatia, whether we choose to sail north or south.

Day 1 - Marina Mandalina - Opat / Smokvica Vela via Kakan 25 nm Our destination is the Kornati archipelago with its natural harbors, inviting bays and secluded beaches.

Along the way, we can tuck into Kakan and anchor in a small lagoon created by this island and the islands of Veli Brnjak and Mali Brnjak - this is a good spot for an afternoon swim.

Opat and Smokvica Vela are located at the south-east end of Kornati National Park, and are wonderful bays with restaurants serving fresh, traditional seafood. At Opat, a challenging walk up the shale hills will reward energetic walkers with a panoramic view of the surrounding islands and islets.

Both places are good anchoring bays, but are exposed to the South. Mooring buoys provided by the restaurants are also available.

Day 2-3 Kornati National Park
For the next couple of days we'll enjoy great sailing, swimming and wonderful cuisine in this truly sailor's paradise. In contrast to the barren landscape above the water, the marine life is one of the richest in the Adriatic. It is strongly recommended not to plan a fixed route as what awaits us is a labyrinth of 89 islands, islets and reefs that make up Kornati National Park. There are numerous possibilities: Kravljacica, Levrnaka, Lavsa... The area is largely uninhabited except for a couple of smaller communities. There are plenty of good bays for anchoring, mooring to buoys or piers with fixed lazylines. Almost all good coves have a cozy restaurant serving delicious fresh seafood (e.g. "Kvarto" at Striznja and "Ante" in Vrulja).

ACI Marina Piskera located in beautiful surroundings in the middle of the Park offers 150 berths and is sheltered from the worst of the winds. Facilities include: Water, electricity, showers and toilets, restaurant and provisions.

Day 4 Telaščica Nature Park
Telašćica Bay is located in the southeastern part of Dugi Otok, a long island that is a natural extension of the Kornati. The 8 km deep and 1.6 km wide bay surrounded by pinewoods and steep-sided cliffs is one of the largest and best protected bays in the eastern Adriatic coast. This is a perfect place to snorkel and discover the rich sea life and marine habitats. A 15 minute stroll to Lake Mir, a saltwater lake that is warmer and saltier than the sea is alleged to have great healing powers.

Day 5 Sali / Bozava
Follow the east coast of Dugi Otok to the island's largest settlement, Sali (pop. 710) a fishing centre with plenty of shops, internet cafes, bars, restaurants and a large supermarket. Scooter and bike rentals are available privately or from Sali hotel to explore the island. The road connecting all places on the island offers magnificent views.

Further north, Bozava (pop. 127) is a pleasant resort destination with souvenir shops, restaurants, bars, a diving centre and other sports facilities. Enjoy an evening stroll along the seaside promenade and a morning walk or cycle on one of the many wooded trails. The clean sea and beautiful beaches are ideal for those looking for peace and quiet in a small, friendly atmosphere. Saharun beach is well-known for its white sand and 400 m long shallow sea.

Day 6-7 Zadar
Zadar is the urban center of northern Dalmatia and one of the Adriatic's most interesting towns with a 3000 year old history. Within the walled peninsula-town are narrow cobbled pedestrian-only streets lined with Venetian-style houses, cafes and shops. There are plenty of historic and cultural sites to visit by day and at night the city's university students fill the eclectic bars and nightclubs.

Marina Zadar is located 10 minutes by footbridge to the Old Town. The facility includes: electricity, water, showers, toilets, laundry service, ice, café, restaurant and casino.

Option: If the transition from nature to cosmopolitan is too drastic for some, Ugljan Island is directly across from Zadar and offers a gentler transition. Kukljica has retained its local rural character and is a popular destination for locals.

Day 8 Murter Island
We'll sail south-east through the Pasman Canal, one of the more challenging cruising areas in the northern Dalmatian Coast.

The village of Murter has a selection of supermarkets and bakeries, as well as a fruit and vegetable market conveniently located close to the marina at Hramina Cove. A 15 minute walk to Slanica cove, features the most beautiful beach of the Sibenik Riviera. Tic-Tac Restaurant is highly recommended.

Hramina Cove is protected from all winds and makes for a safe shelter for yachts. The facilities include: electricity and water, showers, toilets, laundry, internet café, restaurant and hotel.

Uvala Kosirina is a popular anchorage with good holding in sand and weed in depths of 3-13 m. A mile NW of the bay is a suitable spot for an afternoon swim.

Day 9 Vodice Tribunj
Vodice is a popular seaside resort that has retained its 11th century charm. Old buildings along the seafront have been converted into lively bars, seasonal cafés and pizzerias. The pleasant coastal walk leading north to Tribunj is lined with concrete swimming areas giving easy access to the water. The aquarium in town is worth a visit.

The ACI Marina facilities include: Water, electricity, fuel, showers, toilets, laundry and internet café.

Option: Zlarin Island lies 1 M off the entrance to the canal leading to Sibenik. Zlarin is renowned for its coral jewellery and ornaments. The car free island has a few restaurants, bars and shop, a hotel, supermarket, coral museum and art gallery.

Sailing North Dalmatian Islands, Sept. 22nd to October 2nd, 2012

This will be Cooper Boating's second visit to Croatia, chartering a flotilla of boats out of Marina Mandalina in Sibenik north of Split. My boat is a 42ft Jeanneau Sun Odyssey with 5 crew on board and me as skipper! Some of us are meeting up in the fabulous city of Dubrovnik before the cruise to do some sightseeing before driving up the stunning coastline to Split and on to Sibenik. We visit Krka Waterfalls on the morning of 22nd Sept. then pick up provisions and head to the boats to overnight at the marina.
Our journey begins on Sept. 23rd as we head out towards the Kornati Archipelago with its natural harbours, inviting bays and secluded beaches in a labyrinth of 89 islands, islets and reefs that make up the Kornati National Park.
Follow my Croatia 2012 blog as we explore further North into this largely uninhabited part of Northern Dalmatia - the REAL Croatia...